A Drink to Die for? Learn to Spot Dangerous Drinks

“Stay safe! Know what you’re drinking!” After the recent FDA advisory on Cosmic Carabao, we have seen these messages and warnings on social media, news, and even getting these messages from friends. DrinkManila is a big supporter of the local craft spirits and bar industry, and following how the industry has blossomed over the years, it is disappointing and alarming to see such news.

“I think it’s a huge hit to the craft spirit industry,” shares Aaron Limpe Aw, business development manager of one of the oldest distilleries in the Philippines, Destileria Limtuaco & Co., Inc. (makers of Napoleon VSOP Brandy, White Castle Whisky, Paradise Mango Rum, Old Captain Rums, Manille Liqueurs, to name a few).” From what I’ve seen, craft alcohol as a whole has been impacted by this news, beer shouldn’t actually be involved in the conversation. The craft cocktail industry, however, I think will be fine because they are not dependent on craft spirits,” he states.

Experimentation runs through the craft bar and spirits industry, and the local drink industry has come such a long way. Incidents like the FDA’s advisory give you pause. While there are a lot of genuinely great bars, bartenders, and good local products, there is still a need to sound the alarm. Not to scare consumers, but to open their minds and to learn more about what they put in their mouths. Consumers, suppliers, distributors, bar owners, and bartenders should take due diligence in making sure what they’re drinking, buying, concocting, and serving is safe for everyone to consume.

According to Jericson Co, co-founder of The Curator Coffee & Cocktails (ranked #37 in Asia and Best Bar in The Philippines, Asia’s 50 Best Bar list 2019), incidents like these help to inform the hospitality industry of the responsibility it holds. But he says that let’s not act in panic. “Things like this (methanol poisoning incident) sideline the industry for a bit, but I hope the market knows that this is not a judgment across the whole group of local craft products. This incident was the cause of a bad actor in the industry, not the industry, in general,” he explains.

“On the consumer side, people are shocked and highly disappointed on the situation,” shares Frank Kona Shrope, head of The Whisky Society of Manila. “We trust products are ready and safe to consume, and producers have done their due diligence. When you hear of methanol poisoning, it’s usually in provincial and rural areas where there are more back-of-farm stills. That is, of course, less regulated, if at all. As consumers, this forces us to be more vigilant about the items we will consume,” he states.

As an imbiber and editor-in-chief of DrinkManila.com, I have tried many drinks, spirits, and bottlings, some even before reaching the market, we taste it straight from distilling plants. And as a judge in bartending competitions, we serve as guinea pigs in partaking drinks. While it’s exciting to witness and be part of the development of the local drinks industry, in light of recent events, I realized there are some risks and dangers involved. So, we’ve asked various personalities in the local drink industry and listed the following things imbibers, and consumers need to learn more about:

1. Methanol Poisoning
2. Food Allergens
3. Bar Ingredients
4. Safe Preparation and Sanitary Practices

1) Methanol Poisoning

Methanol poisoning is the most glaring danger in the current drink community. You may find methanol in glass cleaners, paint thinners, industrial cleaners, anti-freeze, and vehicle fuel. Ingestion of as little as 10 ml to 30 ml can cause blindness, organ failure, and even death.

Click on this link to learn about methanol poisoning or methanol toxicity

During a spirit distillation process, methanol is concentrated at the beginning of the distillation runs. An experienced distiller knows when to make necessary cuts from the heads to the hearts and the tails. So, when a bottle has a high percentage of methanol, someone was snoozing at their job.

“I’m surprised that the gin issue only happened now,” says Gail Sotelo, WSET Program Instructor at Enderun Colleges and owner of beverage site 2shotsandapint.com. “I’m all about brand familiarity. I rarely consume something made with a brand that hasn’t been established. Frankly, because I’m familiar with the technical aspects of how alcohol is made,” she states. “See, beer is easy. It’s fermentation. I’d likely consume craft beer. Generally, distillation is a trickier process. Several factors would need to be controlled, tested, etc. that’s why in WSET, they really hammer the process of making distilled beverages into us. Wine is also easy. I think because both drinks have a relatively ancient, established process. I have faith that it’s less likely it will be unsafe to consume.”

FDA Certification

According to Aaron Limpe Aw (Destileria Limtuaco), even if something is FDA registered or regulated, it doesn’t mean that the FDA tests every single production batch. “The safest thing to do is to avoid products with broken seals or those marketed by retailers at such below-market price. These items may have been tampered with. Also, buying reputable brands from reputable retailers wouldn’t be a bad idea,” he explains.

Destileria Limtuaco is the country’s first ISO (International Organization for Standardization) certified distilled spirit manufacturing plant. Every year their processes and reports are subjected to audits by an independent body to ensure that they are providing the best quality products in the market. “We are one of the few spirit producers with our own Gas Chromatograph (GC). We use this primarily to test retention samples and supplier sourced inputs for their congener profiles, but methanol readings will also show up here. This process guarantees safety and consistency,” Aaron adds.

“As a consumer, it is really hard to know if the product you are buying is from a credible source. Or, if it has been duly registered by the FDA,” says Simon Cote, founder and managing partner of Apotheke Craft Spirits Corporation (importers and distributors of quality craft spirits like vodka, whisky, Armagnac, Cognac, gin, liqueurs, tonics, and bitters from various companies and distilleries). “In Apotheke, we only import our products once we have received a Certificate of Product Registration (CPR) from the local FDA. These CPR’s required plenty of documentation, which is provided by the producer back in their country of origin. The process is lengthy but necessary to import and sell legally, and this is how we ensure our products are safe for consumers,” he explains.

We have seen a fair share of new bottles in the market; some have been in the market for years without FDA approval! If you’d like to know if the FDA approved a specific local product, view the list from this link.

For new craft spirits in the market, it is essential to learn if the company has an actual distillery with proper distillation processes. “(In Arc Gin) We have an actual distillery wherein people can see and learn the process of distilling,” shares David Ong, co-owner of The Curator Coffee and Cocktails and cocktail expert of Full Circle Craft Distillers Arc Gin. “I don’t think others are as open about this,” he says. “The system is incredibly intricate with all its sensors and is fully automated after the creation of a recipe. Heads and tails are cut down automatically, and so there’s a 0% chance of error unless it’s willful neglect. A lot of people don’t understand that ALL spirits initially starts with NGS (ethanol) before being cut down. If it’s manually done even with a proper still, there are still more risks involved,” he explains.

After the recent FDA advisory, some local brands whose applications in FDA are still pending (because it takes years to get an approval) but have products already existing in the market had their bottles tested in private testing laboratories to make sure their products are safe. The truth is, without an FDA certification, you CANNOT sell your products in the Philippines.  

“Unfortunately, we live in a world of getting to the market ASAP,” says Frank Kona Shrope (The Whisky Society of Manila). “I would tell companies to be patient and wait. It’s always better to do it right from the very beginning. Also, as a spirits advocate, if you want to stay safe when buying whole bottles, make sure you buy your wine, beer, and spirits from the proper channels. You’re always running the risk when buying your drink of choice from a random guy. Many people are on that level, but many people are not. So, be careful,” he warns.

“There are fantastic local products out there made with integrity and excellence, and we trust that the market would eventually see the distinction,” adds Jericson Co (The Curator Coffee & Cocktails).

“My only advice to all importers is to follow Philippine laws in regards to product registration,” says Simon Cote (Apotheke Craft Spirits). “My advice for bars, restaurants, and hotels, is for them not to be shy to ask their suppliers to provide them with the CPR’s issued by the FDA for each product they buy. This way, the establishment can ensure that what they serve to their clients are approved by the government. Getting this documentation will prevent establishments from exposing themselves and their clients to unnecessary risks.”

During the heat of the methanol poisoning incident, Craft Beers Association of the Philippines issued a public statement disproving claims that beer should be associated with methanol poisoning because the process of distilling spirits and fermenting beer are not the same. In fact, sometimes, beer can save a person affected by methanol poisoning. In 2018, Doctors in Vietnam saved a man’s life by pumping 15 cans of beer into his body. Yup! You read that right. Beer saved a man’s life.

Beer contains significant quantities of ethanol, and it can halt the process of formaldehyde before it converts into formic acid caused by methanol poisoning. By administering beer, the doctors had enough time for dialysis to remove the alcohol from the patient altogether. There is a saying, “Liquor before beer—never fear,” in the case of methanol poisoning maybe it is true.

2) Food Allergens

I love craft cocktails, especially when done by a legit and respected bartender, but I’ve had my share of horror stories in drinking craft drinks over the years. I have developed an allergic reaction in certain ingredients and combination of ingredients in cocktails. Though it is not directly from a spirit or alcohol, it may be a combination of ingredients that my body is not familiar with.

After a drinking event or coverage, often, I would come home with a swollen eyelid and rashes all over my neck. There was a time when I had a cocktail out of the country, and I had trouble breathing after drinking. So, from then on, as a precaution, my doctor prescribed me antihistamine before drinking anything new.

Consumers need to know if they have any food allergies. Peanut, tree nuts, milk, egg, wheat, soy, fish, shellfish, or the so-called ‘Big 8’ are the eight most listed allergens in the world. It is essential to see the ingredients of the cocktails in any bar menu and inform your server or bartender if you are allergic to certain ingredients.

“Typically, people who are deathly allergic do reach out and inform us before ordering, and we take those seriously,” shares Jericson Co (The Curator). “Our bartenders know the ingredients we put in all our homemade items, and we can inform them if it is a problem. Protocol for that would be to stop and re-sanitize the station and exclusively do the drink,” he adds.

Bar menus must list all ingredients for their cocktails, including the brand of spirit, infusions, and garnishes. Know that hazelnuts are in Frangelico, almonds are in amaretto, clamato in bloody marys are basically tomato juice with clam broth, orgeat syrup is a sweet syrup made from almonds, clarified ingredients in cocktails use milk, and frothy drinks often comes from egg whites. When in doubt, ask.

If you are allergic to alcohol, please don’t even try to drink. You’ll just aggravate the people in the bar, and it’s not even their fault if something happens to you.

“Back in Vancouver, I was working at a Thai Restaurant, and a guest came in with a peanut allergy,” shares Jericson Co (The Curator). That’s where we got the protocol for a complete restart on the station, and one person would be mindful of making said guest’s meal and drinks. Research, knowledge, pre-empting, and explaining goes a long way. With grievances, we would normally do a post-incident study on what happened and correct specific actions. Typically those have been on customer preferences rather than a bad product.”

3) Bar Ingredients

With the rise of craft cocktail bars come homemade tonics, syrups, cordials, shrubs, bitters, and other craft experimentations. These ingredients have increased in bars around the Metro, and it is making cocktail menus more interesting. And while it is interesting, it is important to know the hazards of certain ingredients. It is also essential to know if individual cocktail components are handled appropriately because these materials are not certified by anyone in a lab coat.

“As a consumer, we have to trust the establishment and the bartender. Especially for homemade ingredients, we assume the bartender has sampled the product first before selling,” says Frank Kona Shrope (The Whisky Society of Manila). “If the product item weren’t safe, the bartender wouldn’t be at the bar serving it because he or she got ill from it,” he adds.

“Any new ingredient that comes to us, we research before we play with, particularly the effects on the body with an overuse of the product,” says Jericson Co (The Curator Coffee & Cocktails). “Anything oddly foraged like a new bark we’d test on our skin first and see if there’s a reaction. An escalation on that would be to chew and spit it out and see how our body reacts. Another escalation would be to make a small tea of the product and then ultimately to the final application all the while tasting and checking with our bodies,” he adds.

Here are a few ingredients to watch out for:

a. Homemade Tonic Water

Quinine is an active, bittering ingredient that comes from the bark of the cinchona tree, and it is the main ingredient in your favorite mixer, the tonic water. If you’re having your favorite G&T in a bar, make sure the tonic comes from reputable brands and regulated bottles. If there are homemade tonics, make sure you trust the bartender who made it, and they have tried and tested their products.

Cinchonism is a type of poisoning caused by an overdose of quinine which causes ringing of the ears, blurred vision, impaired hearing, confusion, headache, abdominal pain, vomiting, and diarrhea.

Read more about the dangers of homemade tonic water 

b. Tobacco

We all know the risks of nicotine in tobacco. It is a dangerous and highly addictive chemical. I stopped smoking years ago, but until today, I still feel its effects. Small amounts of nicotine, when ingested may increase blood pressure, and the flow of blood to the heart and a narrowing of the arteries. It may cause increased heart rate and also leads to a heart attack. The process of infusing tobacco in spirits concentrates the tobacco, which results in the nicotine getting into the bloodstream very quickly. So, next time you see tobacco ingredients in your cocktail, whether it is an infusion, a tincture, or bitters, think twice.

c. Dry Ice and Liquid Nitrogen

We’ve all wowed and clapped at the spectacle of smoke and fog in the bar as bartenders prepare cocktails using liquid nitrogen or dry ice (solid carbon dioxide). Bartenders use liquid nitrogen to freeze ingredients or chill glasses. Dry ice, on the other hand, makes a foggy display. If you’re tasting freeze-dried ingredients with nitrogen, make sure the nitrogen already evaporated before dipping your lips in it. If not, it may cause frostbite or cryogenic burns.

In 2012, a young woman had her stomach removed after drinking a cocktail prepared with liquid nitrogen from a bar. I once ate a freeze-dried ant garnish in a cocktail from an award-winning bar, and it made me feel uneasy. The roof of my mouth and my tongue felt frozen and glued together, and it took a while before it went back to normal.

As for edible dry ice, bartenders sometimes put it in the drink, because, well, it says ‘edible’ right? It might be best to drink it if it is in a separate container and not touching the cocktail, to be on the safe side.

d. Activated Charcoal

Mostly used in health and beauty products, activated charcoal has been popping up behind the bar in recent years. While it makes cocktails look cool jet black and gives a tinge of smokiness, people under medication should be careful in ingesting it. Activated charcoal can mess with antidepressants, birth control pills, over the counter painkillers, anti-epileptics, beta-blockers, and anti-arrhythmic drugs, including medications for diabetes, and even steroids from asthma inhalers.

The sole purpose of using activated charcoal in cocktails is to make drinks black as night. It may look great during your next Halloween party, but if that’s the only purpose, there are a lot of other coloring alternatives. You can use squid ink (though it has some fishy taste, and people who are allergic to seafood may not be able to drink it), black food coloring, or black currant.

e. Fat-Washed Cocktails

Bacon, lechon, or other meat-flavored cocktails have surfaced in bar menus and bartending competitions. Some people may feel squeamish drinking meat-flavored cocktails, but the savory flavors make a cocktail taste great if done right. In DrinkManila recipe library, we actually created a Tapa Old Fashioned recipe. Meat flavor in cocktails is done using a fat-washing method. It’s the process of infusing oily or greasy ingredients into alcohol.

Bartenders freeze these concoctions and sift the spirit when the fat separates and rises to the surface. If your bartender did not cook the meat properly or did not submerge the meat thoroughly in the liquid, it may harbor bacteria and may cause botulism or bacteria poisoning.

Fat-washed spirits must be consumed within a few days as prolonging it can cause rancidity. Again, it all boils down to trusting your bartender. Ask when they made the fat-washed spirit. Often what I do is to request for the bottle that they used so I can see the actual fat-washed product.

“Trust is key,” says Frank Kona Shrope (The Whisky Society of Manila). “So we don’t actually know until we taste the product if bought on a per serving/shot basis. If it tastes off, send the drink back, don’t be shy,” he adds.

“The advent of craft is built on research; research on ways of imbibing, recipes, and techniques, as well as research into what would be safe,” shares Jericson Co (The Curator). “We know that 83ppm of quinine is bad so we would know how to regulate, suppose that we want to make our own tonic water. You can actually research who made a product and where it was made to see if there’s something odd about the process. We know glycerine is bad, so we’re trying to eschew away from products that contain that. A good bar would know what’s safe in what dosage and know how to test,” he adds.

3) Safe Preparation and Sanitary Practices

It’s a no brainer, proper use of ingredients, guided experimentation, adequate cleaning of tools, and safety methods must be mandatory in any bar.

I love sitting by the bar when drinking as I see where the action happens plus I can watch how the bartenders make my drink. Here you can see where they keep their garnishes if they washed it, and how they use and manage ingredients. A messy bartender is always a turn-off, and if they’re messy and unhygienic, it can be dangerous.

According to Simon Cote (Apotheke Craft Spirits), there are small cues that help understand the hygiene practices in a specific bar. “Does the bartender handle garnish with his bare hands or with a garnish tong? Does the bar counter look clean and organized? Even the toilet can give you an indication of the hygiene of a place. Also, with low price cocktails, be aware that equally low-cost ingredients will most likely be used to create the cocktails. In this case, I prefer to order a beer to keep my head in a safer place,” he shares.

Sadly, there are local bars that use low-end products and transfers them in branded bottles.

For ingredient preparation, as simple as washing garnishes appropriately is very important. Make sure the mints, rosemary, oregano, basil and other leafy greens used for cocktails are free of chemicals and washed properly. I’ve experienced poisoning from drinking gin and tonic at home. It was entirely my fault as I used a rosemary twig from the potted herbs I bought fresh from the garden store. I washed it carefully before adding it to my G&T. After drinking, I felt the effects after a few hours, symptoms included excessive salivation, fever, breathing difficulties, tremors, stomach pain, vomiting, and diarrhea. After going through the painful ordeal, we checked the rosemary bush. There was still some blue chemical residue from the fertilizer or herbicides used for the potted plant. From then on, I am always hesitant if the bartender just clipped a leaf from a potted display on their bar. I’ve seen a lot of bars not pre-washing these greens before adding in a gin and tonic. They would get it directly from the grocery packs and straight to the drink. That is not acceptable! Leafy vegetables must be adequately washed, patted dry, placed perfectly in containers, and should be kept fresh in refrigerators or coolers.

For award-winning bars like The Curator, they uphold safety practices with the highest standard. “We would clean and wash down the whole station after every shift,” shares Jericson Co (The Curator Coffee & Cocktails). “We cycle stocks in the fridge weekly and clean them out. Label and date everything that gets opened that’s under 20% alcohol. When in doubt, throw it out, and primarily taste everything before we serve it. For any acidic product, we’ll test the pH on whether it’s safe to store past 24 hours,” he explains. He says that sugar work is heated past 88 degrees to kill bacteria, and any vessel to store products is sterilized.

For more information on safe cocktail practices, visit www.cocktailsafe.org. The site features safety in cocktail ingredients and techniques. Created by Camper English, a drinks writer in San Francisco with educational advisories of Avery Glasser, co-founder of Bittermens, Inc., bartenders, as well as consumers, can learn a lot from the data available on this site.

“We’ve been following Camper English and Avery Glasser for a while now. It was one of their Tales of the Cocktail seminars that fully informed us of bar safety protocols, and we apply these to our bars,” says Jericson Co (The Curator Coffee & Cocktails). “They’re a valuable resource. Getting bartenders to follow them is another thing. There are good bars, and there are bad bars. Mandating requirements typically make the good bars do more work, and bad bars find ways to circumvent,” he ends.

Our local craft bar and spirits industry are progressing. Sadly, unfortunate circumstances occur due to someone’s irresponsibility. Seeing messages like ‘don’t drink local’ is such a backward way to look at it because there are a lot of genuinely great local drink products in the market. We still encourage bartenders to keep experimenting but to make sure to research properly and follow due diligence. Let such unfavorable incidents be a learning curve for the industry and consumers.

Next time you sink your lips in a delicious drink, know what it is you’re drinking. Don’t just be a consumer; be a knowledgeable one.